Home > General > Gerfried eyeing a new route on Nanga, Carlos Soria for GI at 70

Gerfried eyeing a new route on Nanga, Carlos Soria for GI at 70

Weathering a stormy spell in BC, teams on K2, Broad, the Gasherbrums and Nanga Parbat are planning their next moves:

K2 and BP teams intend to fix ropes up to C3; Gerfried will acclimatize some more on the Kinshoffer route before tackling a new line on Nanga; Bowie & Co may go for GIII summit, and Carlos Soria hopes to summit his 8th 8000er at 70 years old.


FTA’s K2 team members hope to get back on the route by Friday when the wind is predicted to abate, leader Fabrizio Zangrilli reported yesterday. “When they do go back up they hope to finish the route to C2 (on the Cesen route), establish the campsite and with luck in the weather begin to get some nights there and work the route to C3.”

For now though, the climbers are waiting out a storm in BC. “Wind & snow. Hunkered down in base camp,” Sean Wisedale texted yesterday. “Why are mountains made so cold?”

Nanga Parbat

”Worsening weather conditions have forced us to delay plans to climb to C2 for an acclimatization night,” Gerfried Göschl reported yesterday. The team is acclimatizing on the normal, Kinshoffer route.

“Günther, Hans, Louis and I (accompanied by Herbert, Michi and Sepp) left Basecamp towards the Diama Glacier, and ascended to 5100m to observe our new planned route,” Gerfried noted. “Great news: the start may be easier to reach than expected. Günther, Hans, Louis and I are optimistic that we will start this untouched face in approximately 10 days. First though, we have to sit out the bad weather.”

Gerfried also reported on the expedition doctor Günther Straub returning to Austria for family-related issues.

“The second Korean female climber, Ms. Go, showed up two days ago,” Giuseppe Pompili wrote. “Right after arrival, she went straight up to C2, in order to acclimatize for the night in a tent previously pitched by the expedition’s porters.”

Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)

Spanish veteran Carlos Soria is attempting Hidden Peak at 70 years old. “It’s the only Pakistan 8000er left for me to climb,” Carlos stated. Soria summited K2 at 65 years old – later, he would top-out Makalu without supplementary O2.

Carlos’ team also includes Marta Alejandre, Luis Carcavilla, two Colombian climbers and a separate Spanish team.

Gasherbrums III & IV

“On the 25th Bruce and I started again up the glacier towards GIII face,” Don Bowie reported. “That day we set up our tent in a spot balanced between big crevasses and huge chunks of debris from falling serac avalanches above, just below 6400m. The next morning we climbed directly across the icefall under the main avalanche chutes toward the GIII face.”

“(While climbing slightly above 6,400m) I heard a soft rumbling sound far above me and peered up – only to discover a rather large white cloud coming my way and spilling over a serac band about 300 meters above. I turned down to Bruce and half-yelled, “um…Bruce…avalanche””.

“I ran down and rightwards – in sequence with Bruce, of course – since we were roped up. Meanwhile, the avalanche apparently split somewhere just above us. I saw streams of powder spilling over seracs to our right and left. We looked at each other, shrugged our shoulders, and immediately retreated down to the Camp 2 tent.”

“(After some further acclimatization), we are all now ready for a summit push pending a break in the weather,” Don stated.

Broad Peak

C2 is installed and most of the FTA team is back at BC, resting. “When they do return to the hill they hope it will include a route push to C3 in anticipation of the summit action to begin in about 10 days,” Chris reported.

“Ben, Paul, Jim and myself slept in C2, 6250m and endured very high winds, snow and 10m visibility – quite hellish, although we have sewn up the route to C2.”

“I enjoy the chance to have the responsibility and joy of establishing the route,” Chris noted. “Even though it is easier and cheaper to simply let other teams do a lot of work and walk in and use their ropes it is not the preference for FTA and our members.”

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