Home > General > The time has come – K2 and Gasherbrums teams on summit push!

The time has come – K2 and Gasherbrums teams on summit push!

The long-time hoped for weather window is finally opening: virtually all remaining teams on K2 and the Gasherbrums are heading up, with sights set on Saturday as summit day.

Iranian GII Monday’s summiteers are expected back in BC today.

Gasherbrum II

“Five members in Tehran’s and Sarab’s GII expeditions reached the summit on Monday, July 20th,” IMZ news reported. “On Sunday, July 19th, the advanced group in Tehran expedition along with members of Sarab team left C3 toward C4 in high wind conditions,” Tehran expedition’s leader, Kaveh Kashefi tolf IMZ. “After sleeping that night in C4, three mountaineers from Sarab expedition joined four Tehrani mountaineers and launched a last-chance summit push before weather conditions worsened up. Meanwhile the second group of Tehran mountaineers went up to support the summit team.”

“Two members of Tehran’s team eventually turned back – the rest proceeded up to the top, which they reached at 1:45pm,” Kaveh added. “On the way back they stopped for the night in C3 and came down to C1 along with other Iranians who were in higher camps yesterday.”

“Several teams are currently on summit bids, scattered between C2 and C3 both on GI and GII – we’ve been staying put in BC though,” Daniela Teixeira stated yesterday. “The Jet-stream was hitting too hard on the peaks’ higher slopes. However, forecasts show better conditions by next weekend, so we’re setting off tonight, hoping to give the summit a shot by July 24-25th.”

Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)

“Sixteen years of hard work on the 8000ers will culminate on Saturday for Veikka,” home team Tammisuo posted yesterday. “Spirits are bound to run high!”

Veika Gustafsson and Kazuya Hiraide departed earlier today towards C1, aiming for a Saturday summit on GI – Veikka’s last peak left on his 14x8000ers project.

“Weather forecasts are looking good,” Tammisuo added. “Saturday seems to be the best possible day for a summit attempt, due to low wind speed.”


“We’re setting off on Wednesday (today), hoping to reach the summit on Saturday,” Martin Ramos’ team reported. “Weather’s lloking good for the weekend, so we’re departing BC on Wednesday or Thursday,” Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner noted.

FTA’s team, whose members reached C2 on the cesen route last weekend, have not revealed immediate plans yet. However, their home team mentioned everyone is acclimatized and feeling ready for a summit push as soon as weather and conditions permit.

Broad Peak

“During the first wave of summit attempts Paul Rowntree (Rocky Summit), Jim Freeman (approx. 7700m) and Fabrizio (7500m) all made it very high on the hill,” FTA’s home team member Stu wrote yesterday.

“Paul will now move over to K2 BC and rest up before either returning for another shot at Broad Peak or turning his full attention to K2,” Stu added. “Fabrizio was on an acclimatization run to ensure that when the whether turns he will be able to push high on K2 – he says he feels super strong for the upcoming sumit push. The remaining members of the team met with high winds and snow as they prepared for their early morning bid and the decision was taken to break down C3 and descend to BC. Some members will join Paul R. in heading over to K2 – including Paul Crowsley, Matt Gardiner and Chris.”

Swiss Eelco and Gert also reached Broad Peak’s foresummit last Sunday. “We got there at 3:00pm local time, after climbing along the delicate summit ridge for three hours,” Eelco recalled. “It was late and we were exhausted – we started down from that point, reaching C3 back at 8:30pm.”

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