Home > General > Teams taking positions on K2 and GI – Alpine style attempt on Latok I’s North face

Teams taking positions on K2 and GI – Alpine style attempt on Latok I’s North face

Between today and tomorrow K2 teams are departing BC on a summit attempt. For technical reasons the alternative route proposed last year has turned out a no-go so the push will go over the usual Cesen and Abruzzi lines.

GI climbers hope for the same forecasted weather window and two Spaniards are attempting the yet unclimbed north face on Latok I in alpine style.

Also; the final summit results for Broad Peak’s normal route have been compiled by a reader/contributor.

K2: K8 Summit

“We’ve had our very own G8 summit in BC (although perhaps it should be the K8 Summit,” Yake Meyer reported yesterday. “All the leaders of the 8 remaining teams and the 30(ish) climbers that they represent are looking to attempt the summit soon, and when the two routes converge on the Shoulder at Camp 4 (approx 8000m), everyone will be in the same place, and all after the same thing.”

Jake Meyer’s summit push plans:

“There had been a thought of taking an alternative route to the Bottleneck, called the Wiessner route, which ascends a rocky couloir, and is thought to be potentially safer than the Bottleneck (which sits plum underneath a massive overhanging glacial serac), but a team who tried for the summit last weekend [Gerl and David] couldn’t find the start of it (it hasn’t been climbed since 1939!), and therefore it was deemed to be too much of an unknown quantity.”

”Our plan is to leave BC (5100m) on Saturday the 1st August and climb to C2 (6450m). On Sunday we’ll continue to C3 (7200), and then on Monday on upwards to C4 on the edge of the Shoulder (8000m), fixing as we go. Nearly all the other teams are on the Abruzzi and they should meet us at C4 on Monday afternoon.” (Ed. Note: Besides Jake’s FTA team led by Fabrizio Zangrilli, only Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is climbing up the Cesen route.)

“Early doors on Tuesday, a small mixed team of the strongest climbers for all teams will leave early (maybe around 1am) and head to the Bottleneck in order to fix rope through this difficult and dangerous section. The other climbers will leave at staggered times throughout the early morning – to avoid a bottleneck effect in the Bottleneck! We are probably looking at a 4am start. Then, all things being good, it’ll be up across the Shoulder, up through the bottleneck, out along the Traverse, and then up onto the summit ridge.”

“We leave BC, summit or no summit on Friday the 7th August (a week tomorrow), and so this really is a last ditch attempt. Fingers crossed, Inshallah.”

Christian Stangl joining too – just faster

“We all heard about the decision to wrestle down K2 in a joint push – Christian Stangl is in on it too,” the speed climber’s home team reported. “Christian wants to start his push to the summit at midnight on Sunday. He will climb from base camp up the Abruzzi Spur to the meeting point, and then to the summit in one go.”

“He’ll try to climb as quick as possible, but his originally planned 24h-skyrun from BC to the top and back has proved impossible in the current circumstances.”

Broad Peak

”According to the last expeditions (Iranian and Spanish) left in Broad Peak’s BC, there were only four summits this summer on Broad Peak,” Anne Halle told ExplorersWeb. “Two Swiss, one German, and the only woman to summit: Cleo Weidlich (USA). These people summited on the morning of July 20th at 8:17 am after a 12 hours-long climb. The female climber suffered mild frostbite; she spent four nights in high camp due to bad weather.”

“Eckler Jonhston of Switzerland got to the ridge but turned around due to extremely high winds,” Anne added. “He said Cleo did a great job, but it almost cost her life. She only found out about the death of her friend and camp mate Cristina Castagna upon descent, when she spotted Cristina’s body in a crevasse at about 7500 meters. Cleo, Rosa Fernandez (Spain) and Cristina Castagna (Italy) were sharing climbing permit and BC.”

“On Broad Peak’s SW side, 29 days after arriving in BC, Iran’s Arash Mountaineers team is still trying to reach C3,” IMZ news reported. “They’ve fixed 2,050 meters of rope between 4900m and 6500m.”

Gasherbrum I

“A three-day, on and off snowstorm has left Gasherbrum II too risky for us to advance any higher this season,” Phil Crampton reported. “Our latest weather forecast is not too promising but we have little choice than to advance to each respective camp on Gasherbrum I and see the conditions for ourselves.”

“Serap Jangbu did not actually make it to Gasherbrum I’s camp three,” Phil aaded. “He was suffering from some leg pains and decided to return to base camp – he is expected back in Nepal in a week’s time. The rest of the die hard crew, which consists of Mark, Arian, Michael, Gordon and myself as well as our Sherpas Pasang Gumba, Tarke, Temba and Pasang are all hoping we still have a chance to make a genuine attempt on Gasherbrum I. The jet stream is still present and this is our main concern at the moment.”

“Our expected good weather turned out to be a two days-long snow storm,” Marta’s home team reported. “The team is still trapped in C1. However, forecasts show a possible improvement which could be used for a summit attempt on Tuesday.”

“Miss Oh Eun-sun will depart towards GI’s summit on Monday,” Black Yak told ExWeb correspondent Kyu Dam Lee.

As for Iranian teams, Tehran and Sarab expeditions (who reportedly summited GII two weeks ago) are on their way home, while the Golestani mountaineers are waiting for good weather to start their summit push, IMZ reported.

Latok I

Oscar Perez and Alvaro Novellon are attempting the (yet unclimbed in spite of several attempts) Latok I’s north face, in alpine style. The Spanish young guns aldeady climbed Latok III three years ago, according to Barrabes.com.

In their latest update last week, Oscar and Alvaro were in BC, preparing to hit the wall. “Should everything go well, we’ll spend about seven or eight days on the wall,” they told their home team. “That is just an approximate amount of time – since no one has climbed the face completely, we have no references.”

The guys warned they wouldn’t report until return in BC, “hopefully after stepping on the top.”

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