Home > General > Himalaya wrap-up: Rescue underway on Shisha in storm conditions, Manaslu summit push

Himalaya wrap-up: Rescue underway on Shisha in storm conditions, Manaslu summit push

“We’ve got quite a lot to talk about – It’s not all good,” reported Dan Mazur, currently helping down Shisha’s normal route a sick team member, while a storm unfolds on the mountain; Andrew Lock and some other climbers are reportedly on Shisha’s higher camps as well. Guillaume Hintzy reported on bad weather approaching Manaslu too – but still has launched a summit push.

Shisha Pangma – North side

“Yesterday we got back to our C3 at about 1:00 p.m. – It was a hard job getting back,” SummitClimb guide Dan Mazur reported earlier today. “On the way down just above C3, one of our members, Bart Dirven, collapsed and was unable to get up. We gave him supplemental oxygen at a very high rate of flow and got him down to C3. We decided that we better keep going down and not to stay in C3 because that might be considered the ‘death zone’ up there.”

“Everyone made it back to C2 by 6:00 p.m. except for Bart, who didn’t reach C2 until about 1:00 this morning, working together with the team trying to escort him down,” Dan added. “He was having difficulty walking and collapsing quite frequently. We kept oxygen on him at a very high rate of flow. We think that Bart is suffering from severe exhaustion. He seems to have some altitude related symptoms. For example, he decided to leave his ice axe and his crampons somewhere on the mountain around midnight. So we got Bart back to the camp and he seems to be doing better now. We have filled him up with lots of food and fluids.”

“Right now the team is l moving down to C1. Hopefully some of us will be able to return to half camp, crossing the Shishapangma icefall this afternoon and maybe even make it down to ABC. Bart is being short-roped down the mountain by Dan with the Sherpas in close proximity. We’re treating it as a full on rescue. We think Bart will be okay though.”

“Meanwhile, a huge storm blew in this morning on to the summit starting at about 7:00 a.m., with massive high winds and a giant wind cloud. Now the upper mountain is completely obscured by clouds and snow. We hope everybody is okay up there. Andrew and Neal are up there along with the Spanish and French team, so we hope they’re doing okay.”

Shisha Pangma – South side

Edurne & Co. may hold summit plans until weather conditions improve, Al Filo de lo Imposible’s director Carmen Portilla told ExplorersWeb. Meanwhile, the team is meeting some celebrities in BC: check Ferran Latorre’s pic with Shisha’s South face pioneer Jean Troillet. The French climber’s plans are yet unknown though.


”After a night at Camp 2 (6400 m), and a push to C3 (6900m), all the team came down to Base Camp on the 27th of September,” Guillaume Hintzy reported. “ I took the opposite direction and went up to sleep at Camp 3 on the same day with Sherpas Phu Dorje and Then Dorje.”

”I came back to Base Camp one day later,” Guillaume added. “Bad weather and strong winds will shortly beat down on the mountain for about 10 days. (However) we absolutely need to reach the summit before the 4th of October. Except for Laurence, which is not enough acclimatized to go on a summit bid, we are off again hoping to top-out, without oxygen, during the night between the 3rd and 4th of October.”

Cho Oyu

“We made the summit, and the whole team is now back in ABC safe and sound,”Alpine Ascents’ leader Michael Horst just reported. “Today we’ll pack and clean up.”

AA’s summiteers on September 30th were John Burns, Vanessa Folkerts, Michael Girard, Martin Grieder, Geri Winkler, Jan Smith, along with guides Michael Horst & Lakpa Rita Sherpa, and the climbing Sherpa team of Tshering Dorjee Sherpa, Kami Rita Sherpa, Fur Kancha Sherpa, Passang Rita Sherpa. Back in BC, the team has posted some cool pictures over Contact 4.0 straight on the expedition’s website.

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