Home > Expeditions & Adventures > Pakistan wrap-up: roads less traveled

Pakistan wrap-up: roads less traveled

Broad Peak and GII routes are open to C2; the Basques are practicing on nearby 6000ers; and Pompili is taking the road less travelled to K2 across Gondogoro La.

The Polish BP-K2 team landed in Pakistan just in time to vote at their embassy.

K2: Gondogoro La approach

“I had to convince Muhammad Ali (boss at Adventure Pakistan) and his sirdar yesterday that it was our firm intention to reach K2 base camp through the Gondogoro La pass from Hushe,” wrote Giuseppe Pompili.

The first to cross Gondogoro this season the team is enjoying a magnificent, isolated valley despite very low snow levels reported at the pass. “No other trekkers are arriving in or departing from Hushe, while we know many groups currently going up Baltoro from Askole, on the yak trail,” Giuseppe reported.

“Along the way we’ve come across several Hushe women carrying huge bundles of firewood – they are the same that, in the evening, carry baskets full of hay for their animals,” Pompili noted. “You’ll say “and the men?” Well, no trace of men, apart from our carriers. In these districts, the division of labour is very clear: women in the fields, to cut wood and men… lead operations.”

Poland’s General Elections day caught the Polish BP-K2 expedition just arrived in Islamabad. “Following the tradition, we landed to the heat of Pakistan – but our luggage didn’t,” Kinga Baranowska noted. “But we were warmly welcomed in the Polish embassy. We all fulfilled our patriotic duty and voted; then were invited to a delicious lunch and held a press conference with local media.” Upon return from the embassy, the Poles found their luggage in place.

Broad Peak: Next – C2

Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo and Mikel Zabalza summited a 6,379 m peak on Khakhal glacier, near Broad Peak. “We took two days to summit; acclimatizing on surrounding peaks is much better than going up and down the same route on Broad,” 14x8000er summiteer Alberto stated.

(Ed. Note:There are plenty of practice runs to do around the 8000ers: The Pakistan Alpine Club is listing 220, 6000ers only in the Karakoram range – the Basques say they climbed “Pastora Peak”.)

Earlier today, the team headed up on Broad itself for a second accimatization round. The plan is to spend two nights in C2 on the normal route and climb up to 7,000m before heading back to BC on Wednesday.

Story edited Jun22: Radek Jaros is climbing on Gasherbrum, not BP as previously published. No one has climbed to C2 on Broad Peak yet.

Nanga Parbat: Iranian Azim to join Koreans

Iranian Leila sold her house for a shot on K2; fellow Azim paid all expedition costs by himself as well; “Iran’s mountaineering Federation just regulated a few necessary official affairs”, he said.

Summiteer of Everest (2005), Dhaulagiri (2010), Broad Peak (2008), Nowshak (2006), Pobeda (2009), Marble-Wall (2002) and Spantik (2004): “Azim Gheychi-Saz left Iran toward Pakistan on Saturday, in order to join an international expedition on Nanga Parbat,” IMZ News reporter Ehsan Darabi told ExplorersWeb.

The team includes 5 Koreans and two Nepalese climbers, Azim explained prior to departure: “One of the Nepalese climbers hopes to bag his 12th 8000er on Nanga.”

Gasherbrums: second team in place

“We are now at base camp after two days of amazing trekking,” Phil Crampton reported yesterday. “We have not seen a cloud for nearly three days. The team members are looking forward to a few days resting to let our bodies adjust to the higher altitude of base camp.”

“We have been informed on arriving at base camp that the first group to arrive here nearly two weeks ago, have already reached camp two and today are hoping to reach camp three,” Phil added. “This means that we will not have to fix the entire route on Gasherbrum II as we did last season!” Ed. Note: The early birds are a French team led by Ludovic Challeat.

Czech Radek Jaros texted that they are just back in BC after setting up C2.

Meanwhile, the Colombia-Gasherbrums bicentenario Banco Av Villas expedition, comprising Luis Felipe Ossa (Everest no-O2), Darwing Bravo Trujillo and María Isabel Ramirez expedition, hope to bag a first Colombian GI-GII double header and expect to reach BC later this week.

Links to 2010 Pakistan teams:

K2

Fredrik Ericsson

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Field Touring Alpine – blog

Meagan McGrath (with FTA)

Fabrizio Zangrilli

Giuseppe Pompilli

Kinga Baranowska

Marcin Miotk

Anna Czerwinska

Mike Horn’s Pangaea expedition

News on Leila Esfandyari – IMZ

Broad Peak

BAT Basque traverse team

Slovakia Marmota expedition

Nanga Parbat

Artur Hajzer’s Polish Winter Himalayism

Cleo Weidlich

Gasherbrums

Radek Jaros

Libor Uher

Waldemar Niclevicz: BP+GI

Don Bowie: GIII+GIV

Altitude Junkies

Arian Lemal

Ludovic Challeat

Colombian Expedition dispatches

Amical

Kari Kobler – blog

Lesser Peaks

David Falt: Latok I

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