Everest wrap-up: summit counter at 5000

May 28, 2010 Leave a comment

“After adding up the summits achieved on May 25, Everest has now more than 5.000 successful ascents,” Rodrigo Granzotto concludes. With no further attempts announced the season is closing with some last words.

Everest south side

“I am back in Base Camp after quite the mountain experience,” Chad Kellogg reported yesterday. “Four days ago I left on a speed ascent May 22 at 4:30 pm.”

Chad reported that his speed ascent went pretty well until shortly below the balcony where heavy traffic and weather worries slowed him down.

”I reflected on the combination of problems at hand: wind, snow, traffic and fatigue,” Chad recalled. “The focus of the climb had not just been to get to the summit; if that were the case I would have just strapped on a bottle of oxygen and gone to the top. This climb was about meeting the mountain in the most difficult way I could imagine. I had made it nearly 10,000 vertical feet from Base Camp to the Balcony at 27,000 ft. Although I was dissapointed with not acheiving the summit the effort was noteable.”

”Hopefully I will get another shot at an expedition for a speed ascent in the near future,” Chad said.

Michael and Anita Kobold, climbing in Kenton Cool/Henry Todd team, summited on May15th. Michael has posted a detailed report about the ascent/descent, including some dramatic episodes. Kenton Cool mentioned frostbites.

Everest north side

Swedish Peter Adolfsson, who summited Everest from the north side on May 24th, reported details on the lost Japanese climber mentioned by Yuri Contreras yesterday. Hirosi (surname unknown), 62, apparently didn´t make it through the night in C3 after reaching the summit.

Pierre Näsman turned back at some point during the summit bid.

Silvio Mondinelli found out after being told by Montagna.org that he is only the second European climber to ever summit Everest from both sides without supplementary O2.

Adventure Peaks members reached BC on Tuesday. Max O’Meara, Brendan O’Mahoney, Matt Snook, Peter Sunnucks, guide Stu Peacock, and Sherpas Sonam, Nima, Phurba, Norbu, Tsring and Raj had reached the summit on May 23rd. “The group had to battle against high winds (50+mph) on the North Ridge to 7800m, in order to be ready for the short weather window.” Some members hoped to launch a second attempt, but saw no proper weather window ahead.

News is expected from Duncan Chesell and Jochen Hemmleb, both in search for Andrew Irvine’s body, and from Jordan Romero’s team.

Jordan’s father and stepmother reported on a very fast climb with no other teams in front. “We punched through a “breezy” day to get to camp 2, where again…we modified our plans to hopefully achieve a quiet, non-crowded route: We planned a 5:30 pm start from Camp 2 and planned to skip Camp 3, only stop to change out oxygen bottles,” they posted. “We stopped briefly at midnight and then it was onto the summit. When we arrived, we had the entire north face to ourselves, just our team.”

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Categories: General

Himalaya wrap-up: Who said over? Summit push on Shisha Pangma

May 27, 2010 Leave a comment

Nepal 8000ers are virtually deserted. The only remaining expedition on Makalu (Brits attempting the SE ridge) is calling it quits as well. A bunch of German climbers and skiers are grabbing a last-minute summit chance on Tibetan Shisha Pangma though.

Shisha Pangma

Alone in a snow-packed north side ABC and short of gear after a storm damaged their high camps (and thwarted a previous summit attempt), the German ski expedition launched a second summit push on Monday, hoping to top-out today or tomorrow.

Makalu

It’s over for the British Forces team, whose members have finally retreated from the rarely climbed SE ridge.

After weeks of struggle, the Brits have run out of time without a break in weather. “In the end the weather had put paid to our ambitions, high winds following on from heavy snows made our particular route pretty much un-climbable, any attempt at the final section would have put the climbers at extreme risk, mainly due to the requirement for a high level bivouac up near 8000 metres” Dick gale reported right before heading down the valley.

“The three members of the French expedition who summited Makalu from the normal route on May23rd were: Sandrine De Choudens (4x8000ers), Alexia Zuberer (2x8000ers), and Philippe Bourgine,” Rodrigo Granzotto pointed out. “The other climbers (Mickael Gamby, Christophe Gotti and Sylvie Ferragu) turned back from 8000 meters”.

“I Summited at 3 o’clock on the 24th of May,” Marty Schmidt confirmed over sat-phone from ABC to some friends. “An incredible route to the summit of Makalu, there’s not one easy way up… I went solo to the top… and back down safely.” Marty’s wife Giannina was waiting for him in BC.

Categories: General

Everest summits from both sides – updated

May 26, 2010 1 comment

Plenty of summit are reported from both sides of Everest this morning. HiMex and Adventure Consultants report that winds have dropped.

Among summiteers: Jordan Romero, 13, Apa Sherpa (in his 20th Everest summit), Elia Saikaly (film maker with his Finding Life team) and Alain, Adventure Consultants with Amanda Ramsden (first South African woman to climb 7 summits) and guide Mike Roberts (4th summit). Mika and Timo from Finland made it as well while Ariun became the youngest Indian to climb Everest.

Stay tuned for more updates tonight and through the weekend.

Update May 22, 8:00am Mountain Time:

“All 12 members, 4 guides and 17 sherpa successfully climbed to the roof of the world, and back down to Camp 4 at the South Col,” Himex guide Adrian Ballinger reported, just back from his second Everest summit this season. “The weather was perfect, no wind, cold at the summit, but quite warm lower down.”

Half of Himex team has stopped for the night in C4, while the rest continued further down to C2.

Mikko Vermas from Finland summited at 8:03am, Nepal Time. He reached back C4 and continued further down to C3. His mates Tomi and Joni turned back on their Lhotse attempt due to lack of fixed ropes.

Adventure Consultant summiteers (3 members, two guides and seven climbing Sherpas) are safely back at the South Col. They’ll proceed to C2 tomorrow and further down to BC on Monday.

Asian Trekking Ang Tshering Sherpa has just submmited a press releaset, confirming Apa Sherpa’s 20th summit – and many more, achieved today and on May 17th. Here it goes:

“Apa Sherpa reached the summit of Everest for the 20th time at 08:34am on 22 May 2010. Apa summited along with Eco Everest Expedition Members Arjun Vajpai (India)m, Mamata Sodha (India), Mika Pitkamaki, (Finland), Timo Allan Ilmari Jaatien (Findland), David Liano Gonzalez (Mexico), Pasang Temba Sherpa (Nepal) Pasang Rita Sherpa (Nepal), Phurba Tshering Sherpa, Namche 8, Nepal (10) Mr.Tshering Phinjo Sherpa (Nepal), Samden Bhote (Nepal), Sonam Tshering Sherpa (Nepal), Sonam Tshering Sherpa (Nepal), Nawang Karsang Sherpa (Nepal).”

“Arjun Vajpai, (16Year 11Month 18days) is the youngest Indian National to reach the top of Mt.Everest.”

“Earlier Three Members of Eco Everest Expedition reached the Top of Mt.Everest on 17 May at 08:11am. They are: (1)Miss Cleonice Pacheco Weidlich (USA – Origin Brazil) , Dawa Tshering Sherpa (Nepal), and Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa (Nepal).”

On the north side, Jordan Romero SPOT tracker shows he has reached back C2.

Categories: General

Everest update: The wind rules

May 25, 2010 Leave a comment

High winds picking up on Tuesday night and blowing all day long yesterday divided teams on the current summit push on Everest south side. Some battled the gale on the way and in C3, while others chose to stay in C2 for one more day.

Front line climbers planned to reach C4 today and set off towards the summit tonight.

On Everest north side, the wind has got teams stuck at the North Col for days – but climbers are still confident that weather will improve enough to let them top-out before the monsoon sets in.

Meanwhile, Gerlinde and Ralf have reached the North Col from Odell’s route, hoping for a No O2 summit chance on Monday.

Weather

Last Sunday, both Meteo Exploration and Expedition Weather showed high to very high winds May 17-21 with lower winds starting May 21/22.

Today’s (May 21) forecasts show wind speeds up to 80 knots (152 km/h) dropping fast from tomorrow to around 35 knots and then to below 30 knots by May 24.

Summits reports

“Watchmaker Michael Kobold and his team reached the summit of Mt. Everest May 17th ,” a press released read. This is the second Everest summit for the Pittsburg resident Kobold, who climbed from the south side in Dream Guides team. On the summit with him were his wife Anita, Ang Namgel Sherpa, Thundu Sherpa, Dr. Robert Casserley and guide Kenton Cool.

“The Tibetan and Chinese team fixed the route to summit and got a lot of their members on the top,” Dan Mazur reported yesterday from the north side. “Some other teams also summited: some Taiwanese and a Polish climber named Magdalena, who reached the summit on the 18th.”

Weather buzz

”The monsoon is fast approaching this year – it might hit the central Himalayas on the 27th,” Summit Climb reported, based on Dan Mazur forecasts for Everest north side. Peak Freaks leader Tim Rippel, currently on the south side BC, reported on “lightening and big booms of thunder coming from the valley below created by the onset of the monsoon.”

“It’s a tad early and seems to happening that way more each year,” home team Becky added. Becky also reported on two cyclones hitting India yesterday – they caused a large number of casualties and forced evacuation for 45,000 people from coastal areas. “In other words, the spin off winds that Everest climbers endured through the night were significant,” she wrote.

Everest south side

MountainTrip members set off towards C3 but changed their mind at the base of the Lhotse face: “The winds really began picking up and they decided the prudent decision was to head back to Camp 2 for the night,” Bill told his home team. They are trying to reach C3 today in hopefully decreasing winds. Alpine Ascents team decided likewise.

Altitude Junkies are also moving up to C3 today, aiming for a Sunday summit. “We are told there are many groups going for it on the evening of the 21st hoping to summit on the morning of the 22nd so we have decided to try and avoid the larger crowds by going a day later,” Phil Crampton said.

Adventure Consultants group reached C3 in spite of the wind. “We knew that today was not going to be an easy one. When the team arrived early this afternoon they were experiencing gusts of up to 40 knots,” they reported. “However, the winds are dropping and our forecasts support this continuing trend.”

Other teams who reached C3 yesterday and will be likely proceeding to C4 on the South Col today are: IMG, Himex and Asian Trekking, according to Eric Simonson. Finding Life members Ellia and Allain are also in C3, using O2 and hoping to reach C4 today. The Finnish Ev.-Lhotse team is already in C3, where they had to repair some tents ripped off by the wind.

According to RMI team, whose members moved from BC to C2 yesterday, yesterday there was noone in position for a summit attempt at the South Col – bids may however start tonight, should the wind drop.

Odell Route: Gerlinde & Ralf on summit push

“On Wednesday, 19th May, Gerlinde and Ralf left base aiming for weather window forecast for 23rd and 24th of May,” Gerlinde team reported. “The couple reached the North Col at 7,200m via the Odell Route on Thursday. They are planning to spend another day at the Col. According to the weather forecast, Monday will be the best possible summit day.”

Everest north side

“Five of our members and 2 of our Sherpas are on the North Col and have been there for several days,” Dan Mazr reported. “They are trying to move to camp 2, but it’s been too windy and difficult to go up. Other teams have tried to go up to camp 2 and turned around. They’re hoping they can go (today) in the morning.”

“The first group is blocked at the North Col (7000 m) by strong winds – for the second day, no one could go up,” Alex Abramov confirmed. “Sherpas were unable to carry loads to the upper camps. Wind is supposed to drop tonight, but snowfalls are expected in upcoming days – will it be a good window?”

Silvio Mondinelli and his team reached C1 (North Col) yesterday.

Links to 2010 Everest teams:

Everest south side

No Guts Know Glory

Ta Loeffler

Altitude Junkies

Anne-Mari Hyryläinen (AJ) – SkyClimbers

Albert Bosh

Colombian expedition

Chad Kellogg speed attempt

Mountain Trip

Peak Freaks

Alpine Ascents

Paul & Denise Fejtek (MT)

Patrick Hollingworth

Adventure Consultants

IMG

RMI

Elia Sailaky – finding life

Adventures Global

Malta team

Eco Everest

SummitClimb

Mountain Madness

Expedition Hanesbrand

Jagged-Globe

Dream Guides

Kari Kobler

HiMex

Adrian Ballinger – Alpenglow

Michael Kobold

Everest-Lhotse

Simone Moro

Finnish expedition

Cleo Weidlich

Everest north side

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Silvio mondinelli

Alfredo Garcia – La Rioja expedition

Hungarians – Dreher 24

Jordan Romero

Project-Himalaya

7-Summits Club

Adventure Dynamics

Duncan Chessell

Adventure Peaks

Bill Fisher

Bill Burke

Categories: General

Dhaulagiri inferno: Air Rescue Mission debrief

May 24, 2010 Leave a comment

Last week a Chinese expedition hoped to summit Dhaulagiri May 13 on the peak’s 50th anniversary. The fourteen people party set out in increasing wind. Other expeditions reported that the team lost two tents, reached the summit by nightfall and had to force a bivouaq through the stormy night.

An inferno ensued and three climbers lost their lives. Fishtail Air and Air Zermatt rescued the survivors using two different approaches; human sling operation and hovering.

Here goes their report.

16-05-2010 Air Rescue Mission on Dhaulagiri

On May 16th the Himalayan air rescue team – a cooperation of Nepalese Fishtail Air and
Swiss Air Zermatt – rescued seven climbers from Dhaulagiri mountain in Nepal.

Short after the call was received May 15th at around 5 a.m., the rescue helicopter (AS350 B3) started from Kathmandu Airport. Arrived at the scene, the rescuers found that 8 Chinese mountaineers and 6 Sherpas were stuck in camp 3 at 7300 meter – and maybe even higher.

In two reconnaissance flights, 8 people were located. They were exhausted and only very slowly descending in the direction of camp 2. Unfortunately the weather was too bad to carry out a rescue mission.

6 climbers airlifted

The next morning (May 16th) two helicopters started from Pokhara to base camp. It became clear that 3 Sherpa’s and 1 Chinese climber had arrived in base camp, leaving a total of 11 people on the mountain.

During the approach the rescuers saw 2 people climbing down, just below camp 1. They were able to descend on their own. Between Col Ne and camp 1 at around 5900 meters one mountaineer was waiving for help.

He was evacuated by the helicopter hovering short above the ground. In Col Ne (6100 meter) 2 other climbers were evacuated by the hovering helicopter. Subsequently a rescuer was brought to a location just below camp 2, by sling operation.

3 mountaineers were blocked after one of them was not able to walk anymore. These climbers were evacuated by sling operation and brought down to Col Ne, whereupon they were flown to base camp.

Three climbers lost

To rescue the climbers still higher up the mountain (they were likely somewhere around camp 3) the idea was to bring well acclimatized Sherpas up to camp 2 by sling operations.

Short after the first Sherpa was flown to camp 2, the rescue team heard over the radio from base camp that nobody was in camp 3 any longer. Two Chinese mountaineers presumably lost their way in a whiteout and fell down. One climber died at around 8000 meter, most likely after suffering a high altitude edema. The rescue mission was thereupon aborted.

The five wounded Chinese mountaineers were flown to hospitals in Pokhara and Kathmandu. Some of the Sherpas suffered light frostbites but could be treated in base camp. The rescue mission was carried out by both the Nepalese and Swiss crew.

Air Zermatt from Switzerland is trying to establish a long lasting training program to transfer the knowledge of high altitude helicopter rescue to the Nepalese crew of Fishtail Air. To cover the costs of this trainings, Air Zermatt and Fishtail Air are searching for sponsors.

Since the beginning of the current season, the new rescue service has performed rescue operations at altitude on Manaslu, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and a number of 6000er and 7000ers.

Categories: General

CDC Software Acquires TradeBeam

May 23, 2010 Leave a comment

CDC Software has acquired TradeBeam – a provider of on-demand software as a service (SaaS) supply chain visibility and global trade management solutions. TradeBeam, based in San Mateo, California, represents CDC Software’s largest SaaS acquisition so far.

The companies said the acquisition makes sense on several fronts:

  • CDC Software,which is a hybrid enterprise software provider of both on-premises and cloud deployments, and TradeBeam have common customers.
  • The acquisition is CDC Software latest move in expanding its portfolio of cloud-based solutions and increasing recurring SaaS revenue.
  • CDC Software plans to integrate TradeBeam’s SaaS applications into its CDC Supply Chain product line, which it says will improve supply chain visibility, and automate import and export global trade management and compliance processes.
  • TradeBeam also offers additional opportunities for CDC Software’s enterprise solution customers, who sell globally.
  • TradeBeam customers are expected to benefit from CDC’s solutions, too, the companies said.

TradeBeam holds several patents and has more than 1,000 customers with users in more than 100 countries worldwide. CDC Software said that that global trade management is a growing market for the company.

“We believe the global trade management market will continue to see strong growth and offer us numerous revenue opportunities since companies are selling more and more of their products globally and increasingly moving their manufacturing and sourcing offshore,” said Bruce Cameron, president of CDC Software. “Like many of our past acquisitions, TradeBeam fits into CDC Software’s disciplined acquisition criteria and is expected to be earnings accretive immediately.  We also believe our margin will expand further as we take advantage of more cross selling and cost savings opportunities when TradeBeam is fully integrated into CDC Software’s global business and technology platform.”

“This is a very synergistic combination on many fronts,” added Edward Flaherty, CEO of TradeBeam. “Our solutions are a great fit for CDC Software’s growing installed base, especially with its CDC Supply Chain and CDC eCommerce products and their market presence in complementary vertical industries such as automotive, medical device and retail industries.  We expect that TradeBeam and its customers will benefit immensely from the global breadth of CDC Software’s technology and business infrastructure, especially their extensive operations in China, and the company’s broad portfolio of complementary solutions. In fact, parts of the Chinese government are already users of TradeBeam’s import and export compliance solutions.”

In a related development, CDC Software has added Beijing Hinge Xin Yuan Software Co., Ltd. as the latest franchise partner that it expects will help expand its CDC Platinum HRM solutions into the large state-owned enterprise (SOE) market in China.

Categories: General

Lhotse: Kazakhs on top!

May 22, 2010 Leave a comment

The Kazakh team led by Maxut Zhumayev summited Lhotse yesterday,” Lena Laletina at RussianClimb told ExplorersWeb. “Lhotse is the 13th 8000er for both Maxut and Vassily Pivtsov.”

Minutes Later, home team member Andrey Verkhovod checked in to provide some details:

Thee men-strong summit team

“Kazakhs summited Lhotse on May 16, at around
1.40pm local time, Vasso reported via sat-phone,” Andrey wrote. ” The team consisted of three climbers who set off from BC on May 13: Max Zhumayev, Vaso Pivtsov and Vlad Chekhlov.”

“Vlad is a very young climber from midland city of Karaganda (so, unlike most other Kazakh
climbers, he has no around the year 4000+m aclimatization),” Andrey explained. “Lhotse is his first 8000er, which he has achieved w/o O2 and as member in a sport team!”

As for the currently 13th 8000er summiteer Pivtsov, he reported on “not too strong wind” and no time to loose fixing ropes above C4, according to Andrey. “Max also noted there were some old ropes from previous years,” Verkhovod said.

“The guys are currently resting in C2, and proceeding down to BC tomorrow,” Andrey ended up
.
All flanks under Kazakh siege

Apparently Kazakh climbers assaulted Lhotse from different flanks yesterday: while the national team went up on the normal route, Denis Urubko opened a new variation from the South Col (check previous stories on ExplorersWeb).

Categories: General